I am in the advance stage of my car search and plan on making a purchase within
 the next ten days.

I have very specific requirements and I’m interested if anyone reading this
 forum has the car(s) which meets the below specifications.

Please review the list and contact me iif you meet all those items with an *.
 Special consideration will be given to those which also have an @,

Thank you in advance,

Dave Golden

*94 Maxima
*Pebble beige in color
*Automatic transmission
*Between 20K-50K miles
*Located within 200 miles of the Chicagoland area
@Moonroof
@Leather interior
@Elevated rear tail light (I don’t know its proper name)
@CD player

             Hmm no i dont have either of those tires on mine I have the
General Grabber’s the big 31 inch tires….I only have 6000 miles on my
pathfinder and its squeeked since day one…(i dont drive hard at all) The
first time I took it in they said nothing was wrong, the second time i took
it in they said the back brakes had built up a glaze (they said i stomped on
the brakes too hard!!, give me a break, first of all i didnt and second of
all isnt that what brakes are for….!!!!) i got it back and it wasnt doing
it that day but i only drove it about a mile…Then the next day it started
doing it again and it seems likes its always from the rears not the
front…so I took it back again and they said there was nothing wrong….What
gets me the most is when I pull up to a stop sign or signal light and theres
a 4 runner or jeep or any sport utility vehicle and my brakes start
squeeking, its more of an embarrasment than anything….I know its not right,
because Ive driven in others that dont squeek…..sooooo needless to say im
pissed off….Ken

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Charlie Giannetto wrote:
>   Yes, my 96 exhibits the same squeaking/squealing.  Seems most
> noticeable when the pads are cold.  Actually sounds more metallic
> than any of the typical sounds I’ve heard from the brakes on my
> previous vehicles.  As for the rear end clunk, the 93 we had
> previously did the same thing … I wouldn’t worry about it.

>   While we’re bitching about the Pathfinder, anyone out there
> have the Dunlop tires instead of the Bridgestones?  What do you
> think of them?  Frankly, I feel the damn things are downright
> dangerous in anything but the driest conditions.  In fact, it’s
> so bad I’m even considering replacing them on my leased truck.
> Can anybody comment on either the Bridgestones or the Pirelli
> Scorpions?

> TIA,

> Charlie
> charl…@li.net

> In article <344EC2F1.9F626…@earthlink.net>,
> Ken C  <Kencon…@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >          I’ve had nothing but problems with my brakes squeeking on my
> >97 pathfinder.  Anyone else having this problem???  It has done it since
> >day one and i have taken it to the dealer to have it fixed but they seem
> >to be brain dead… (they actually told me that all new cars brakes
> >squeek,  thats just the way it is…)  yeah right…ive owned too many
> >cars for that line of crap…anyhow if anyone else has this problem
> >please let me know…also there is a wierd clunk coming from the rear
> >part of the vehicle when i come to a stop i dunno if its the brakes or
> >the transmission…..any help appreciated thanks….Ken

     I  ALSO OWN A 92 STANZA.  VERY NICE CARS.  IN 1993, THEY BECAME THE
ALTIMA WITH NEW BODY STYLING.
     I’VE NEVER BEEN SATISFIED WITH AFTERMARKET BRAKES ON MY NISSANS.  I
LIKE GENUINE BRAKE, ELECTRICAL, AND IGNITION PARTS.  TO HELP THE NOISE, TRY
CLEANING AND ADJUSTING THE REAR BRAKES.  ALSO, MAKE SURE THE FRONT PADS HAVE
THEIR SHIMS INSTALLED.  I ALSO LIKE TO GREASE THE BACKSIDE OF THE PADS AND
SHIMS WITH A HIGH TEMPERATURE GREASE – DO NOT USE THE SILICONE PRODUCTS.
    WHEN YOU REPLACE THE PLUGS, USE NGK (THESE ARE OEM) OR ND (NIPPONDENSO,
OEM FOR TOYOTA).  THEY WILL RUN QUITE WELL.  ALSO LOOK AT THE CAP AND ROTOR.
REPLACES WITH OEM AS REQUIRED.  AT 88K, YOU MAY ALSO NEED PLUG WIRES.  I
RECOMMEND OEM AGAIN, BUT AT MINIMUN USE A HIGH QUALITY 8MM WIRE.  DO NOT USE
A CHEAP 7MM PEP BOYS LIFETIME WARRANTY WIRE SET.
     THE ENGINE HAS A TIMING CHAIN, AND IT IS INTERFERENCE.  IT CAN JUMP 2
OR 3 TEETH, BUT AFTER THAT YOU MAY BEND VALVES, BREAK GUIDES, OR BUST
PISRONS.  I REPLACED THE TIMING  CHAIN AND >>GUIDES<< AND TENSIONER AT 64K
AS A PRECAUTIONARY MEASURE.  NISSAN HAS COUNTERMEASURE GUIDES NOW DUE TO
EARLY SERVICE FAILURE.  YOU’LL KNOW WHEN THE GUIDES GO, YOU’LL HEAR THE
FRONT OF THE ENGINE RATTLE LIKE MAD AT STARTUP.

has anyone had a problem with the right channel of there factory
stereo….i am only having the problem while using the tape
deck……..almost no sound comes out of the right side ….
ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!!!!  please respond here or to
ALS30…@AOL.COM

High pitched squealing noise may be helped by applying a medium grit valve
grinding compound to the belts.  This will help break the glaze on the
pulleys. DO NOT use a belt dressing – it softens the belt and adds to the
glazing problem.  Additional applications may be required.
Your water problem:  Is it water or antifreeze?  Water: Your  evaporator
drain may be plugged or missing.  Blow compressed air into the drain
(located behind the engine on the front of the fire wall).  Due to the
evaporator case’s enviroment, a biological experiment tends to flourish and
clog up the drain (Do you have a dank or musty smell when the blower motor
first comes on?).  Antifreeze:  Is your heater core leaking?  This would
also explain the whirling noise (possibly).  If in certain vehicle attitudes
(hard cornering) the heater core allowed coolant out, it could also allow
air in.  Air in the heater core is typically described as a gurgle in the
dash.  Good luck on the second problem – best guesses

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Jeff wrote in message …
>  Hello All ~

>I’ve developed a high pitch squeling noise under the hood of my ’95
>Pathfinder XE.  Sounds like a belt but, in addition when making a sharp
>turn I get a terrible whirring noise under the dash, and then water starts
>leaking all over the passenger’s feet!

>Any ideas??  I’d just like a bit of ammo before I take it in.

>Thanks in advance.

>   Jeff

First attemp at posting.  Hope it can be read

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Go to: http://members.aol.com/jmpidhirny, then click on small cars.

Hi there.

Yeah, I put in a lot of hours researching it, but found the place.

Honest guys with an honest price and
the best service ever on a satellite dish.

Check out http://www.dishonline.com/special

And you can get the special deal I got too.

Thanks for asking.

    I recall a similar problem about two years ago.  The oil leak was coming
from the the rear main seal area.  I replaced the rear main, drove the car,
and rechecked – still a leak.  After further inspection by myself and a few
other techs, we found a casting flaw in the cover that bolts to the back of
the block – it was porous in one area.  There is nothing like pulling a
transmission twice under warranty for 3.5 hours.
    Nissan does apply a preservative to that are of the vehicle that will
seep on occasion, but the problem will cure itself.  There is not a leak
effect – no streams of oil are observed.

I have a black 300zx for sale.
1996, 54 kms, 2 seater automatic.   If purchased you would be the first
owner.  Warranty starts the day you buy it.  I have a silver 2+2 and a
white 2+2 as well.  All less than 100 km.
Interested?